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Art and Architectural Travel Culinary Travel Europe Uncategorized

The Basque Country – Beauty & Independence

The proud capital of Spain’s Basque region, Bilbao, is a place where culture, history, and mouthwatering gastronomy surround you. Their storied history and decades spent fighting to retain their unique culture have shaped it to be the one-of-a-kind city it is today.

I was lucky enough to call this city my home for one short year during university. Everyone who knows me will tell you that I haven’t stopped singing its praises since. Spain is a large country with countless amazing cities to explore, but let me tell you about Bilbao’s history and why it should be your next destination.

Life in Spain

I always knew I wanted to leave the United States and live someplace else. When a professor recommended Bilbao, I decided it was the place, even though I had never heard of it before. A few months later, my bags were packed and I jumped headfirst into the culture and world of the Basque region.

I am ashamed to say that not a lot of time was spent studying. Instead, I spent my free time stepping back in time to walk the colorful streets of Bilbao’s old quarter, called Casco Viejo. The narrow streets date back to the medieval age and is now a popular place for bar crawls, shopping at local markets, and open plazas with cozy terraces. Students, travelers, and the elderly alike go here to enjoy the festive atmosphere.

  • Old Town Bilbao
  • bilbao-
  • panoramic-Bilbao

Europe’s Oldest Language

After stepping off the plane, I was first surprised by the strange letters I saw on the street signs and shop fronts. These words full of x’s and k’s had never appeared in any of my Spanish books.

Visitors to the region soon learn that signage proudly displays the basque words first, then Spanish. They call their language Euskara, while the rest of Spain calls it Vasco.

The Basque language predates Latin, and is, in fact, the oldest living language in Western Europe. Its origins are completely unknown. It has no apparent root words or influences from any other language. As the last remaining pre-Indo-European language, it may be even older than the Neolithic age.

The Fight to Be Basque

During Franco’s dictator rule of Spain, he had a vision of a Spain united as one and free from any outside influence. His idea of the ideal country was one where every citizen was a practicing Catholic who spoke Spanish and nothing else.

This is why, when meeting the generations born under his rule, you will find yourself speaking to a lot of women named Maria. This was by design since there was a strict list of acceptable names. All names with origins or spellings from another language were banned, meaning the family names passed down by Basque families for centuries were now illegal.

Valley of the Fallen
Valley of the Fallen

In certain regions of the country, you were fined for speaking any other language. In areas where it wasn’t technically illegal, anyone speaking Basque or Catalonian would be seen as anti-Francoist. During dictator rule, this was the last thing you wanted. Rates of fluency gradually decreased.

Due to this oppression, the Basque language has now become an important part of ethnic identity. The wounds have not been forgotten, and many consider themselves thoroughly Basque, not Spanish.

The language was difficult and I only remembered a few important words. When the bartender hands you your ice-cold beer, saying eskerrik asko, (“thank you”), goes a long way towards making you a more popular customer.

More Pintxos Please

The basques know how to snack. While other parts of Spain may give you some stale potato chips with your beer, you order pintxos in Bilbao.

Named after the verb pinchar, meaning “to pierce”, pintxos are served on a small piece of bread and topped with ham, seafood, cheese, beef, and more. It is usually nearly toppling over and skewered in place with a toothpick. I always order several, since they are just one or two delicious bites.

Tapas are usually simple, some saucy potatoes or a small piece of tortilla. A pintxo is more complex and innovative, usually with a harmony of unexpected flavors and sauces. A chef can be more adventurous when it comes to pintxos and most bars have dozens of unique combinations to choose from.

The fact that the idea of tapas has spread around the world but pintxos have stayed local has always surprised me. With the increasing popularity of basque cuisine, we can only hope that the pintxo will earn its place of honor on the international gastronomic stage.

pincho-tapas

Guggenheim Museum

It’s not often that a single building can put a city on the international map, but most buildings aren’t the titanium-clad Guggenheim Museum. Designed by the legendary Frank Gehry, it is one of the most admired examples of contemporary architecture in the world and glistens next to the flowing Nervion River.

Bilbao was facing a post-industrial economic slump in the ’90s. The city gambled on an expensive building to introduce the Basque capital to the rest of the world. Almost overnight, a city without a tourist culture started to fill with visitors.

The museum is known for its modern art and the curves of the building and large windows feel like a second exhibition. Make sure to head to Richard Serra’s The Matter of Time exhibition, where you can find your way through a maze of ceiling-high spiraling steel sculptures.

guggenheim-Bilbao

The Pickiest Soccer Team in Europe

Since 1912, their multiple league-winning soccer team, Athletic Bilbao, has only signed players who trained in or are native to the Basque region. The plan is to bring their own young players up through the ranks and give them a chance. Many in the region consider it a point of pride to cheer on a team made up of their own.

Others, however, find this nationalism cold and discriminatory. This a rare prerequisite in major organized sports. No other European team places restrictions based on birth and national identity.

Luckily, I felt welcomed as an outsider during my time in Bilbao and am glad I took a bet on an unknown city. Living in a fiercely independent city was new to me and opened my eyes to the conflicted history of Spain.

Everyone knows Barcelona and Paris are magical cities, but I challenge you to pick somewhere less-visited for your next voyage. You might find yourself falling in love with a place like Bilbao.

bilbao-football
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Europe Road and Rail Travel Travel Tips Uncategorized

Beyond Big Ben: Day trips from London

An estimated 30 million visitors per year make London the most visited city in the United Kingdom. Red telephone booths, Tower Bridge, and the allure of a royal family sighting make it the perfect first taste of what England has to offer, but why stop there when there are so many beautiful places to explore just a short ride away? 

Bath 

Distance from London: 2.5 hours by car

Known for its architecture and history, Bath is a sophisticated town that served as inspiration for Jane Austen novels. What once was a Roman settlement is now a wonderful romantic getaway for couples. It’s also great for boutique shopping and taking in loads of history! Spend your day walking the Royal Crescent, having afternoon tea in one of the many local cafes, and gazing upon the style trends of yore at the Fashion Museum. 

Roman bath in Bath, England
Roman bath in Bath, England

Brighton

Distance from London: 2 hours by car

Most photos of Brighton online feature the coastal town’s pebble beaches lined with striped canvas seating or the famous Palace Pier, and that’s exactly what you get here! Brighton is a vibrant town with trendy cafes and record shops, vintage shopping, and open-air markets. You can also hit up the carnival-style games on the pier, which has stood above the water for over a century! Beware of the seagulls if you’re looking to enjoy a lunch by the water  they’re not afraid to steal your fries. 

  • Brighton Beach Ferris wheel
  • Brighton Pier

Hitchin Lavender Fields

Distance from London: 1 hour by car

Imagine 35 miles of lavender stretched as far as the eye can see against a pale blue English sky. Sounds like a dream, but it’s a real-life place called Hitchin only a 30-minute train ride away. These sprawling flower fields are a photographer’s floral paradise. Make a day of the trip by bringing a picnic to be enjoyed on one of the farm’s picnic tables. There is limited wheelchair access to the main field and dogs are allowed but must remain on their leashes at all times. 

Dungeness

Distance from London: 1.5 hours by car

Dungeness is a nature reserve that’s often described by visitors as eerily deserted. Located on the coast of Kent, Dungeness is home to one of the largest expanses of shingle in Europe. It’s home to a historic lighthouse that helped aid ships home until 1960, but you can visit it still today. One of the best things to do in Dungeness is to rent a bicycle and ride around the flat, almost desert-like landscape of the town. There are a number of pubs and breweries if you feel like rewarding yourself post-bike ride with a beer (or two). 

Whitsable

Distance from London: 40 minutes by car

Whitsable is the quintessential British seaside getaway. After you snap some photos at the colorful beach huts (some of which have sold for an estimated 150,000 GBP), you’ll want to fill your tank. Eat oysters at Wheeler’s Oyster Bar, a pretty pink building near the town center, or classic fish and chips at any of the number of vendors along the coast. Finish off the day by cycling to Whitsable Castle for sunset if you have time before you head back to the busy city. 

Cambridge

Distance from London: 2 hours by car

Best known for its prestigious university, Cambridge is the epitome of quiet sophistication. Arrive in the morning and head straight to Fitzbillies for brunch, a local haunt known for its beautiful cakes and full English breakfast. Next, go punting along the river on a bright spring day, flowers along the banks all in bloom. Hit up King’s College Chapel to gaze at the world’s highest fan-vault ceiling in the world. Finally, stroll across the Mathematical Bridge (officially known as the Wooden Bridge), which many people mistakenly believe uses no nuts or bolts to remain secure.

Canterbury

Distance from London: 1.5 hours by car

Canterbury is a fantastic town known mainly for its cathedral and ancient Roman walls. Just a short trip from London will put you in the middle of this picturesque place where you can hit up the Farmer’s Market in the Goods Shed, sip the afternoon away in Tiny Tim’s Tearoom, and peruse a retro games emporium. There is also the Beaney House of Art and Knowledge for visiting art history enthusiasts. 

While London is a stunning metropolitan area, there is so much more to England than Big Ben and the House of Parliament. These beautiful towns and beaches are just a short car or train journey away. Whether you are looking for an artsy afternoon or a quiet nature escape, there is a day trip from London for you. 

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Culture and Heritage Europe Single Solo Travel Travel Tips

One Magical Night on the Great Blasket Island in Ireland

I was frustrated when the Wi-Fi died. My trip to the Great Blasket Island was hinging on the availability of a small boat, and I was now unable to contact the owner. However, after a ten-minute jog to the harbour in Dunquin, I was welcomed on board – the result of a last minute cancellation.

But why was I so obsessed with staying overnight on the Great Blasket Island?

It has no Wi-Fi, warm showers or electricity, but this tiny island off the coast of County Kerry is incredibly important to the history and culture of Ireland. In many ways, this is also a case study and microcosm of emigration from Ireland and why the Irish diaspora is so large in America in particular.

With this in mind, I wanted to stay on the Great Blasket Island and imagine a time that we will never see again. I also hoped to discover what it might have felt like to live on the most westerly landmass in Europe and experience a lifestyle that was immensely different to life on the mainland today.

But you’ve got to go back many decades to really understand the magical appeal of the island…

Derek Cullen on the Great Blasket Island
Derek Cullen on the Great Blasket Island. Photo: Derek Cullen

About Life on the Great Blasket Island

You will find an upper and lower village on the island with a school, post office and community hall in between. While these buildings are now derelict, the rubble stone walls, square-headed sills and enchanting doorways are still visible to this day. What’s more, visitors can walk freely among and within these buildings, while imagining the old ways and traditions on the island.

However, the Great Blasket Island is most famous for the literary heritage left behind by the natives. That is to say, many famous writers and poets came from the island which became known as a birthplace for musical and storytelling genius. In fact, the locals only spoke in Gaelic (Irish language) but these books were translated and now used as part of the modern school curriculum in Ireland.

Aside from the above, there is also a surprising variety of wildlife on the Great Blasket with hares and puffins gracing the hills, and seals, whale sharks and dolphins in the surrounding waters.

Anyway, the point is, this island holds a lot of historical and cultural significance for Ireland. And if that’s not enough, the village offers a unique insight into a way of life that we will never see again.

The house that was on the Great Blasket Island
Photo: Derek Cullen

Abandonment and the Seductive Lure of America

In case you might be asking yourself, the Great Blasket was abandoned in 1954 when the population went into serious decline. More specifically, most of the youth on the island had emigrated to America and those who remained were unable to cope with the harsh demands of life on the island.

For instance, in times of emergency, there were not enough able-bodied people to row to the mainland. Similarly, the prospect of carrying out repairs, digging peat and sourcing food was a little too much for an aging population. But why was the pull of America so strong for the young locals?

Well, America seemed like a very exciting place to live. Most young adults on the island had heard about this land of opportunity and day-dreamed of the riches that might transform their lives. In other words, life on the island was enjoyable but often seemed far less exciting next to the fancy clothing, delightful food and bright lights of New York, Boston and Chicago. In the end, most of these young adults would take the same journey to America and inflict a significant impact on the population, not to mention the future of the island. Interestingly, it was easier for locals to reach New York than Dublin and the boat fare to reach the former was just £8 at the time.

Ironically, I was now obsessed with visiting an island that people my own age were once desperate to escape. And after boarding the boat at Dunquin, I was excited to explore this beautiful landmass.

My Wish to Sleep on the Great Blasket Island

Believe it or not, the home of Peig Sayers (a famous islander/author) is now a small guesthouse and the only operational building on the island. However, visitors are also welcome to bring supplies and camp overnight on the island and while there are no facilities for such guests, this was my choice.

Upon arrival, I walked from one end of the island to the other and stood at the most westerly point of Europe. With gulls and puffins flying overhead and stunning scenery in every direction, I couldn’t help but think that these young islanders had left a natural haven for a smoke and stress filled city.

Later that day, I wandered from one abandoned building to the next and marveled at the small spaces in which large families were able to live together. There was also something about these walls that felt haunting and yet so alive, and it was easy to imagine my ancestors huddled around the fire. I could also hear the laughter and stories and Gaelic tongue, a language that only survives in very small pockets of Ireland to this day. After dark, the seals were singing on a nearby beach and a deafening silence fell in between each chorus.

It really was a very different world and as I settled down in the tent that night, I read “Twenty Years a Growing”, I felt gratitude for this time capsule they call the Great Blasket Island. It was far from the busy streets of the mainland and even further from America but it was as close to a forgotten time in Ireland into which a mere mortal could venture. It’s true, there was no Wi-Fi, no warm showers or no electricity and at that moment, there was nowhere else I wanted to be.

 

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Art and Architectural Travel Europe Historical Travel Uncategorized

Walking in the footsteps of Elizabeth I

Elizabeth I remains one of the most popular English monarchs more than 400 years after her death. So much about this first woman to reign England in her own right intrigues and captivates us. The daughter of boisterous Henry VIII and his infamous second wife, Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth learned early how to cope with tragedy and trouble. Some impressive historical sites remain from the popular Tudor era that allow you to walk in her royal footsteps. It goes without saying that your tour should include stops at the Tower of London and Westminster Abbey, but other locations have special connections to Elizabeth.

Hatfield House

The ground where Hatfield House stands today once was the location of Hatfield Palace, which served as Elizabeth I’s childhood home. During those turbulent years when her father, Henry VIII, had a difficult time determining which of his children he would consider legitimate and which wife he was married to, Elizabeth was tutored in the subjects expected of young princesses at Hatfield Palace. Today, the building does not remain, but some of the gardens are just as they were in the mid-16th century when Elizabeth walked among the flowers and sat reading beneath the trees. An oak tree at Hatfield House is the alleged place Elizabeth was standing when she was informed that she was Queen of England.

Kenilworth Castle.  Photo: Esartee

Kenilworth Castle

Beginning as a Norman tower in the early 12th century, Kenilworth Castle has been through many phases of construction, siege, and rebuilding. During Elizabeth’s lifetime, it was a property of Robert Dudley, the man many expected young Elizabeth to marry. Dudley, the Earl of Leicester, never did marry the famous Virgin Queen, but he did extensive renovations at Kenilworth to make it a worthy stop for Elizabeth and her court while on progress. Like many elaborate properties, Kenilworth did not survive the English Civil War of the 17th century. The ruins that remain today are a memorial to another age surrounded by recreated medieval gardens that mirror those that Elizabeth would have strolled with her beloved Robert.

Bath Abbey.  Photo: Barnyz

Bath Abbey

The history of Bath Abbey goes back much further even than Elizabeth. As the site of King Edgar’s crowning in 973, this site has been a home of worship for centuries. One of the many victims of Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries, Bath Abbey was almost completely destroyed when Elizabeth undertook its reconstruction. The current location is a functioning church, so you may attend services in the building commissioned by Good Queen Bess.

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Archaelogogical Tourism Culture and Heritage Europe Historical Travel Middle East Uncategorized

Kayakoy – Turkey’s ghost town

In the South West of Turkey sits a popular ghost town. The Kayakoy OR Rock Village,  lies just a short distance from the crowded and famous beaches and resorts in the Fethiye.  Populated with Greek-styled architecture the town was occupted by Muslim and Christian communities who coexisted peacefully until the early 1920’s.  During that time Muslims farmed the land and the Christian community were skilled artisans and but both communities were closely linked and co-dependent on the others skills.   The Kayakoy was largely

Photo:  Nick Wadge

abandoned after the Greco-Turkish War after the population exchange agreement in 1923, which was signed by Greek and Turkish Government. The hillside village was further destroyed in 1957, by a massive 7.1 earthquake that shook the valley and destroyed most of the structures. Houses that were not destroyed were left untouched and remain today.

Today, the Kayakoy village has been preserved as a museum village and tourists can view the skeletons of the buildings in Kayakoy.  Although the remaining structures have no rooftops, doors or walls it is easy to imagine the history and the peaceful ives that the villagers had during its and churches with no rooftops but it is easy to imagine the happy and peaceful life’s of the villagers during its peak. The kayakoy village is called as the symbol of “Peace and Harmony”. It shows the delicacy of harmony between the cultures.

The Kayakoy ghost town is rich in history and a wonderful display of 19th century society.

 

Cover photo courtesy of Sarah Murray, CreativeCommons.

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Agritourism Culinary Travel Europe Uncategorized

Discovering Bulgaria’s wines in Melnik

Bulgaria’s smallest town is a wine lover’s dream!

Melnik in southwestern Bulgaria, is home to just four hundred people who exist in a historically riveting location that is a huge hit with wine tourism enthusiasts. Many visitors swarm the town annually, interested in historic landmarks like the Pashov House which houses the Historical Museum of Melnik, the Pasha’s House, built by one of the richest beys in the region during Ottoman rule—Ibrahim Bey, the Byzantine House which was originally constructed in the 12th century as a fortress, and the remarkable sand pyramids.

That’s all well and good but what about the wine right? You’re in for a real treat when you discover and taste Melnik wine. The red grapes used to make the wine are indigenous to Melnik and according to server Rozhlas.cz, cannot be found anywhere else in the world. The Greece border is close-by which allows the grapes to grow under the Mediterranean sun. This results in a legendary wine renowned the world over, with a unique taste that will entice your palate.

Bulgarian wine cellar in Melnik
Photo:  Poom!

Wine tourism in Melnik has not been affected by the fact that both the town’s wine production and its population has decreased significantly over the years. Visitors can’t get enough of the local strong red wine—Shiroka Melnishka Loza (Broadleaf Melnik)—that was allegedly one of Winston Churchill’s favorites, and has been in production since the 14th century.

Many of the wine cellars are hundreds of years old, and are best explored when it rains.  If you’d rather not hotfoot it around without knowing which wineries you should try, and those that are even operational or not, try using one of the guided bus tours to get you on your libation journey. The Wines of Melnik and Struma Valley Tours is a great one to start with, as it allows you to experience the true taste of Melnik wine, while imparting interesting historical information and stories related to the wine throughout. The tour takes visitors on a journey to five specially selected wine cellars, “one of which is a 100% organic and bio-certified winery,” according to bulgariawinetours.com.

What are you waiting for? Take a trip to Melnik, where history, culture, and wonderful architecture are punctuated by good wine. Let wine that has graced the lips of European royals since the 17th century pass yours, and be the envy of every other wine enthusiast!

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Art and Architectural Travel Culture and Heritage Europe Uncategorized

Beautiful Vieux Lille & the French Flanders

The French Flanders region is home to a charming city that is as picturesque as it is historically prominent.

Lille, the capital of French Flanders, is a cultural hotspot that travelers just can’t get enough of. Make sure your visit is more than just for a day, as you’ll want to really explore all the city has to offer.

The Lille Métropole Museum of Modern, Contemporary, and Outsider Art, is a great place to start, especially if you’re a museum, culture, history, or art lover. A standout art exhibit is the Musée des Beaux-Arts and you can lose yourself in the wonderful pieces found there. Entry to the attached sculpture garden is free to enter, and is a must-see during your visit. Meanwhile, your kids aren’t left out either, as theMuseum of Natural History features a range of stuffed mammals that children adore.

Grande Braderie de Lille
Photo:  Jean-Francois Gornet

Many visiting during the first weekend of September annually, were able to check out the Grande Braderie de Lille— Lille’s famous flea market. The tradition spans centuries and has been growing and evolving for years. Now much like a festival of brocanteurs, there is so much to experience that it’s like being transported to another world. Unfortunately, “due to the high risk of terrorist attacks in France, the Grande Braderie de Lille 2016 has been cancelled,”—(source: fleamarketinsiders.com)

With so much to do in Lille however, you can make up for the missed festival by taking in its architectural splendor at your leisure, roaming the streets at night when the old town literally dazzles, or spend your time discovering the many culinary delights that define the region.

One such specialty is the city’s waffles, which you must taste when traveling there. If you have the time, have lunch at Le Barbue d’Anvers, a restaurant that has kept the old French Flanders style and all the taste and quality that goes along with it.

Throughout history, Lille has been associated with the working class, and over the years has become a significant industrial center. It is this background and rich history that visitors to the city are exposed to daily.

Lille, a place where a day trip is simply not enough, what are you waiting for? Get packing!

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Archaelogogical Tourism Art and Architectural Travel Europe Uncategorized

Prehistoric Art of Lascaux Cave

One of the greatest tourism attractions in France takes visitors thousands of years into the past and offers a unique insight into the lives of prehistoric humans.  This attraction are the famous Paleolithic cave paintings inside the Lascaux cave, located in the Dordogne district of France and near the village of Montignac.  Now part of the UNESCO World Heritage together with some other caves in the same valley, Lascaux is famous for the large number of Upper Paleolithic art consisting in various large animal drawings, scattered on the walls of the cave. These animals, some known today and some that have disappeared are one of the best testaments on the fauna that used to inhabit the area some 17,000 years ago.

The cave painting of Lascaux exhibit.  Photo: Jason M. Ramos
The cave painting of Lascaux exhibit. Photo: Jason M. Ramos

After the cave was initially discovered in 1940 by a local boy and his friends, the fame of the cave grew so much that it endangered the very existence of the paintings. The cave was closed down and the art was restored to its original condition. After a few years, a replica of two of the halls inside the cave was opened to visitors just 200 meters from the original cave that was being preserved. Today, there are still threats that threaten the integrity and appearance of the paintings inside the Lascaux Cave but scientists are steadily working to preserve these highly important cultural heritage marks. The rooms of the original cave include amazing paintings located inside The Hall of the Bulls, The Passageway, The Shaft, The Nave, The Apse and The Chamber of Felines.

The thousands of paintings throughout the cave are uniquely grouped according to animals, humans and abstract signs.   Many of the paintings have been analyzed and descriptions are offered for most of the images.  However, there are still many unidentified abstract signs and animals. There have also been many theories on the significance and interpretation of the Lascaux paintings. From hidden star charts to ritualistic visions or a sort of hunting record, scientists have not yet agreed on the magnificent paintings in this cave. Nevertheless, the anthropological and cultural importance of this site is immense and is considered one of mankind’s treasures.

 

Cover image courtesy of Jack Versloot (CreativeCommons).

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Culture and Heritage Europe Historical Travel Uncategorized

Visit the World of the Romanovs

The Romanov family was infamously and brutally murdered by the Bolsheviks at the end of World War I. Czar Nicholas II, his wife, and their five children were executed to make way for the new ruling hierarchy under the communist leadership of Vladimir Lenin. The Romanov dynasty had just celebrated their 300th anniversary as the ruling family in Russia five years before the family was exterminated. Theories and hopes of surviving Romanov family members flourished for decades after the murder of the royal family. With the use of modern technology, there now remains little doubt that all seven family members were in fact killed on that fateful night in 1918. However, many astounding historical sites remain that allow the traveler to visit the royal world of the Russian Romanovs.

Tsarskoye Selo

An ornate room inside Catherine’s Palace. Photo: Harvey Barrison

Once home to Czar Nicholas’ family and many generations of Romanovs before them, Tsarskoye Selo remains in all its majesty as a preserved step into the past. Various displays and museum rooms honor Russia’s history, including six rooms that are permanently dedicated to the story of the Romanovs. This sprawling estate was built in the early 18th century, and it soon became known as Tsarskoye Selo, which means the Tsar’s village. It would remain a royal estate until the October Revolution of 1917 when the Romanov family was taken captive. It has been a public site since then and is wonderfully maintained and displayed.

Alexander Palace

Alexander Palace in St. Petersburg was the last home of the Romanov family, where they lived as a close-knit family and welcomed guests and ambassadors. Due to recent renovations, the estate has recaptured its former glory and once again looks like a house of royalty. With renovations complete, Alexander Palace is open to visitors. You can see where the Romanovs lived like a typical family, tour the reconstructed living areas, and imagine their life before being taken into exile.

Peter and Paul Fortress

Peter and Paul Fortress.  Photo:  Gor Vlad

Dating back to the early 1700s, the Peter and Paul Fortress is a site rich with Romanov history. Originally built by Peter the Great, this fortress includes the burial ground for Romanovs from Peter himself through Alexander III. In the center of the fortress, visitors are drawn to the soaring Peter and Paul Cathedral that towers above the fortress buildings surrounding it. Also on site is the City History Museum where visitors can learn about the various events and uses of this location over its more than 300 year history.

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Archaelogogical Tourism Europe Uncategorized

Underground Treasure: Poland’s Wieliczka Salt Mine

Deep in the underground of Poland near the center of Krakow lies a treasure of history and culture, preserved in an incredible state and welcoming over 1 million visitors each year. Designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the old Wieliczka Salt Mine is the most popular tourist attractions in Poland and offers a unique experience into the underworld civilization and local culture.

Working in the salt mine.  Photo:  Alexander Baxevanis

The Wieliczka Salt Mine produced table salt from the 13th century until 2006, when production was stopped and the mine became a tourist attraction. The main highlight of this mine is the exceptional underground cathedral carved into the salt rock, the several chapels and many statues that the salt miners have created along the centuries.  The most popular Chapel is the Chapel of St. Kinga which features a beautiful altars, a statue of pope John Paul II and a copy of the Last Supper.  Unfortunately, the Chapel of Saint Anthony is not available to visitors because it has been damaged by the elements.  While the cathedral and the chapels are a tourist focus, there are multiple other statues and monuments spread throughout the galleries like the salt rock chandeliers and the wooden Golgotha.  These date from ancient to contemporary times and are as equally impressive and other attractions in the mine.  The unique artistic works make the salt mine one of .

Joseph, Mary and baby Jesus.  Photo: “See Inside” Flickr

The Wieliczka Salt Mine is also an exceptional cultural venue, with a reception hall and a chapel where even weddings can be performed. The mine is an excellent venue for concerts and often hosts performances because of it superior acoustics.  Being regarded as a museum, the salt mine is also a place for exhibitions. Visiting the mine is a unique experience, with several routes that go deeper and deeper into the galleries, from the Tourist Route, the Miners Route and the Pilgrims Route, as well as several adventure experiences that take visitors in search of the mysteries of Wieliczka. The unique microclimate of the mine is also adaptable to health treatments, offering excellent health services to the patients.

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Culture and Heritage Europe Events and Festivals Historical Travel Uncategorized

Medieval Festival of Souvigny, France takes you back in time

Wandering this unbelievable and fascinating planet, people often overlook the true meaning of travel and only see the places they visit with their eyes and not their soul. There are destinations that are mostly unknown to the grand majority of people, but that offer the most amazing experiences of a lifetime. Some of these places are located in France and one of them in particular is worth seeing at least once in a lifetime–Souvigny.

The small town of Souvigny is located in the middle of France, in the region of Bourbonnais. Today just a small provincial town, Souvigny once was very influential during medieval times, when it was the capital and residence of the House of Bourbon that birthed the kings and queens of France. With an exceptional medieval architecture and a Benedictine Abbey that still hovers magnificently over the town, this forms an interesting destination in the heart of France. But the true highlight of Souvigny is the medieval fair and festival that is held each year in the central square of the town. The inhabitants have made an association specifically with the purpose of organizing the festival and together with volunteers, they put together a charming medieval event that attracts thousands of people from near and far. Along the few medieval streets in the town merchants, musicians, actors, jugglers, fire breathers, animal tamers, knights and dames walk in a charming event that brings the medieval experience into the 21st century.

The festival of Souvigny offers the unique opportunity to enjoy medieval concerts and shows, theatre and knight jousting, medieval craftsmen creating masterpieces and an authentic medieval meal inside a huge tavern.  Apart from the entertainment itself, people can also visit the landmarks of the town, including the impressive abbey that holds the tombs of the Duke of Bourbon, as well as other medieval buildings. The festival of Souvigny starts each year around the end of July and usually lasts for 9 days, giving tourists the unique chance to discover how it used to be in the France of several hundred years ago.

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Art and Architectural Travel Europe Historical Travel Uncategorized

Visit the World of King Richard III

Whether you are a historian who has long been fascinated by the controversy surrounding Richard III’s life and death or someone who has been intrigued by the recent developments regarding his remains, an exciting tour of medieval England can help you learn more. Little of the English countryside looks as it did during Richard’s short reign (1483-1485), but there are some excellent locations that do remain. Commemorate the dynasty of Richard III by walking in his royal footsteps.

Middleham Castle

Richard spent much of his youth at Middleham Castle learning how to be a nobleman of the 15th century. He was trained by the infamous Earl of Warwick, Richard Neville, who is also known as the Kingmaker. Richard later inherited this castle himself and lived there with his wife, Warwick’s daughter Anne and their son, Edward. It is possible to envision Richard surveying the area from the walls of Middleham’s ruins. Render your opinion of the provocative statue of Richard III that stands in the bailey.

Streets of the City of York.  Photo:  Martin Pettitt

City of York

The city of York was more supportive of Richard during his 26 month reign than any other region. The city walls incorporate many gatehouses, including the Monk Bar. The Richard III Museum resides in the uppermost room of the Monk Bar, which Richard himself had built. Was he the murderous villain portrayed by Thomas More and Shakespeare? See the evidence and decide for yourself.

Tower of London

No tour of medieval England would be complete without visiting the Tower of London. Staunch Ricardians may be offended by the plaque definitively declaring Richard the murderer of his nephews, Edward V and his young brother, Richard the Duke of York. While some questions about Richard III have been answered by the Leicester dig, the fate of the Princes in the Tower remains a mystery. The Tower has been a part England’s history since the Norman Conquest, serving as royal residence, torture chamber, and zoo.

Bosworth Field.  Photo:  Gavin Stewart

Bosworth Field

Walk the ground where Richard III’s reign came to an end as he cried, “Treason! Treason!” before he was cut down by Henry Tudor’s personal guards. If you travel to Bosworth Field near August 22nd, you can witness the reenactment of the battle that resulted in the end of the Plantagenet Dynasty. The grassy fields seem so calm, but you can almost glimpse apparitions gliding there in memory of the historical event.

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Art and Architectural Travel Europe Historical Travel Uncategorized

Discovering the Republic of Georgia

There are some parts of the world that are still virtually unknown to the wide mass of travelers and the tourism industry is yet to break through their veil of authenticity and mystery. Somewhere in the Caucasus Mountains, between Russia, Turkey and the Black Sea, a rather small country has more to offer than first meets the eye, with one of the richest historical heritages in the region, a wealth of fascinating things to see and experience, a veritable original heaven for those that are looking for magical places–The Republic of Georgia.

The Bridge of Peace unites the old and modern parts of Tbilisi.  Photo:  George Mel

The Republic of Georgia is a former Soviet Union state, although it has its own unique history, culture and individuality, different from other nations in the region. Even the Georgian language is completely different from neighboring countries, being a veritable battlefield for world powers and empires through the centuries. Despite all these, the Georgian people managed to maintain their authentic culture and identity. The territory of Georgia has been inhabited for millennia and there are magnificent historical traces all over the country.  Some of Georgia’s historical lineage include it’s legacy of wine producing–the oldest in the world.  Georgia was also the second country to adopt Christianity right from the 1st century.

The town of Mtskheta.  Photo:  Andrzej Wojtowicz

Traveling through Georgia, there are few words which can describe its immense beauty, combining the high mountain peaks with beautiful beaches along the Black Sea shores, ancient and medieval fortresses, as well as charming cities and authentic villages.  The unique and tantalizing Georgian cuisine and the incredible sense of hospitality of its people to all these, makes Georgia one of the most enticing travel destinations. Describing all of these natural marvels and hidden cultural treasures in this small country would take a full-time tourist guide, but there are some places that should not missed during a trip to the Republic of Georgia including the capital of Tbilisi–a very charming city that dates back as far as the 5th century. Although destroyed and affected by wars and other disasters, Tbilisi is still a wonderful place with a beautiful historical centre and unique atmosphere. The main attraction comes from walking around the old town area, admiring the winding narrow streets and the old houses around charming courtyards. Tbilisi also offers other attractions including old churches, interesting museums and other monuments. The rest of the country is equally, if not even more appealing, with the ancient city of Kutaisi, the enticing Kakheti Wineries, Mount Kazbeg and its unbelievable Tsminda Sameba monastery, the highlands of Upper Svaneti, the historical and religious town of Mtskheta are just a few examples. Then there is also the fascinating culture of Georgia, with traditional cuisine, dances, songs, festivals and everything in between that provide hundreds of reasons to visit.

 

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Culture and Heritage Europe Uncategorized

The Charming and Unique City of Brno

The second largest city in the Czech Republic is also one of the most interesting travel destinations in the country. Although not many tourists have discovered it yet, Brno is a wonderful city, with a wide variety of sights and attractions. Located in the southeastern part of the Czech Republic and founded almost a millennia ago, Brno is home to some amazing monuments, some of them unique in Europe and the world. The former capital of Moravia is home to the second largest underground ossuary in Europe, after the one in Paris, with a complex labyrinth of cellars that hold the remains of over 50,000 people. Discovered only in 2001, the underground complex dates from the 17th century and has just been opened for the public about one year ago.

Capuchin Monastery
Capuchin Monastery.  Photo (cco)

Another somewhat unusual attraction of Brno lies in the Capuchin Crypt, beneath the Capuchin Monastery, where tourists can see the mummies buried here. Due to the airing system and the geologic composition of the ground, the bodies of the Capuchin friars and others have been preserved as mummies since the 17th century. Although these two sights might not be for everyone, it is good to know that the city holds many other more peaceful attractions. One of the most famous attractions is the Spilberk Castle, dating from the 13th century and passing through Renaissance and Baroque transformations. The castle became a fortress and served as a prison during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, when people that were persecuted from the whole empire were held here.

The second grand attraction of Brno is the St. Peter and Paul Cathedral, located on Petrov Hill and a symbol of the city. The cathedral passed through transformations along the centuries, reaching its present Baroque style. The oldest and largest square of Brno is the Freedom Square, dating from the 13th century and featuring several interesting buildings and monuments. One of the oldest buildings is the Old Town Hall, with some amazing features, including a gothic gate, a tall tower with breathtaking views and many charming legends. The St. James Church is also an old Gothic church dating from the 13th century and beneath the church there is the newly opened Ossuary.

Apart from these main landmarks and attractions, there are also other interesting visits in Brno, including the Moravian Square, the Luzanky Park, the Tugendhat Villa, the Capuchin Monastery, the Denis Gardens, the Moravian Museum, the Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady, the Cabbage Market, the Moravian Gallery and many others. Several kilometers to the northwest of the town, visitors can find another treasure of history and architecture, the Veveri Castle, also dating from the 13th century, located in a beautiful wooded area and presenting some amazing features.

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Culture and Heritage Europe Historical Travel Uncategorized

Top 5 reasons to visit Belgrade

While most peole arriving in Europe to see the magnificent tourist destinations located on the continent choose to visit the most famous capitals of the West, there are some destination, rather unknown to the tourism industry, that have the potential and impress and intrigue. One of these places is the capital of Serbia, Belgrade, a city with a rich history that spans almost two millennia. There are countless reasons to visit the city, but here are the most important ones:

1. Charming architecture – While most tourists would not expect this, Belgrade features amazing landmarks that exhibit various charming architectural styles, coming from its long history. The city has everything, from imposing royal palaces and luxurious mansions to intricate orthodox cathedrals and churches, and from ancient fortresses to modern buildings.

2. Interesting Museums – Belgrade has its own share of diverse museums, presenting the history and lifestyle of an entire nation. Tourists can choose from countless destinations, including the National Museum, the History Museum, Ethnographic Museum, the Military Museum, the Nikola Tesla Museum and many others. These amazing museums make Belgrade one of the greatest destinations in South-Eastern Europe.

3. The Kalemegdan Fortress – This impressive fortification located at the tip of the peninsula where the rivers Danube and Sava meet used to be an important military fortress in medieval times. Today, it is one of the most charming parks in the world. Among the walls and ruins there are trees and flowers today, with people strolling and relaxing on the benches. It is also a romantic destination within Belgrade.

4. Unique atmosphere – While the city is still Eastern through its core, Belgrade has a charming Mediterranean and Western vibe to it, with elegant pedestrian streets, wide boulevards with fashion shops, small pubs and bars on the side streets, fancy restaurants and a lively cultural scene. One of the most attractive areas of the city is the Skadarlija Street, a small cobblestone alley filled with bohemian restaurants and craftsmen shops, where people can truly feel the unique atmosphere of the city.

5. Traditional cuisine – While visiting the most popular and famous tourist destinations in Europe, it is sometimes difficult to find restaurants where one can still try the traditional cuisine of that destination. In Belgrade, these are everywhere and anyone can sample the unique delicious Serbian. There are also some charming restaurants along the Danube that have tasty fish specialties.

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Destinations Europe North America Seasonal Travel Travel Tips Uncategorized

Top Ten Hottest Summer Party Spots in the Northern Hemisphere

Attention party animals.  The summer is far from over but autumn is on our heels.  So if you’re still looking looking to party like the summer will never return then take note of these top ten party spots that site north of the equator.

Ibiza, Spain – This place is known as the ‘party capital of the world’ and the world class DJs that play at some of the most knock-out clubs make it so.  Revelers flock to Ibiza by the millions each year.  The popular club scene complements an impressive collection of bars.  Ibiza also host an annual live music event called Ibiza Rocks. This party spot should be enjoyed at least once in your lifetime.

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Culinary Travel Europe Uncategorized

Gastronomy heaven in Provence, France

One of France’s most beautiful regions is Provence, featuring an unique blend of mountains and sea, old cities and traditional villages, nature and culture blending in an unforgettable atmosphere. While most people visit Provence for the high luxury of the Cote d’Azur or for the ski slopes of the Alps, Provence is also a heaven for gastronomy lovers, with dishes that have inspired and intrigued generations of travelers. With unbelievable beaches, inciting casinos, magnificent castle, mountain villages, cultural heritage and hundreds of things to do, it is obvious why so many people overlook the gastronomy of Provence when traveling to this unique province. Whether you are looking for the next holiday destination or you wish to sample the captivating cuisine, Provence is a great choice.

The gastronomy of Provence is unlike any other in France, given the unique geography and history of the region, its close link to the Mediterranean Sea and the Greek, Spanish and Italian influences. The cuisine of this region relies heavily on lean Mediterranean recipes, with olives, fresh vegetables, fish and seafood, herbs and other spices. It is a sensual and organic cuisine, leaning heavily on more healthy recipes. Being located along the Mediterranean coast, fish and shellfish are present in many recipes.  Unlike other parts of France meats are not used as much, although some traditional recipes do call for sheep and beef. The preferred cheese of Provence is goat cheese.

BouillabaiseAs with any part of the world, the French Provence region boasts its own authentic recipes and specialties.  One of the region’s most popular dishes is Bouillabaise, a delicious seafood, vegetables and herbs stew that is prepared with olives, anchovies, capers, olive oil and lemon juice. There are many other traditional recipes in Provence and it would take forever to describe all the aromas and delicacies of this region. The sweets of Provence are worth a special mention, with North African influences and a lot of unbelievable tastes. Although not as famous as other regions, the wine of Provence is loved by many people. This is one of the oldest wine producing regions of Europe and this can be felt through the hundreds of small wineries offering rich and hearty wines.

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Europe Uncategorized

The Azores – A little-known European destination

For travelers who want to visit a place that’s a little off the beaten path, consider Azores.

The Archipelago of the Azores already has a few claims to fame, one of which is having the coveted mark of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for its historic town center, Angra do Heroísmo.

Over the years, this autonomous region of Portugal has been somewhat forgotten as a viable European tourist destination. Most that end up in the archipelago do so because of emergency landings while on their way to another destination. It’s a shame too, as with intricately romantic architecture, hundreds of volcanoes, hot springs, lakes, exceptionally rich soil made fertile due to volcanic activity, numerous plants including tea, and breathtaking landscapes, it is an exotic location that should not be missed.

Sao Miguel
Church on the edge of Sao Miguel

While there, visit Vulcao dos Capelinhos, an exhibition about volcanoes that followed a 1957 eruption that shook the island of Faial. The exhibition stands at an old light house that was nearly buried by magma and dust, so that the first floor is now actually underground. Don’t worry about travelling there however, as though the volcano is occasionally active, the last eruption Azores experienced was in 1963.

You can also visit the whaling museum, as though it’s not a current practice, the archipelago was once known for whaling.

If you’re not sold yet, here’s some more to get you ready and packing. Nine volcanic islands make up Azores, and there are approximately two hundred and fifty thousand citizens. The youngest island is Pico (ca. 300,000 years old), but age has nothing to do with standing out, as Pico’s volcano is 2,351 meters, and the tallest Portuguese mountain.

The largest Azores Island is Sao Miguel, which is the autonomous government’s seat. Here you will also find a university and the gorgeous Nossa Senhora da Esperanca convent. As there are nine different islands, there’s no real capital city, and all office buildings are found on varying islands.

Take advantage of this little-known tourist’s dream, and enjoy the many activities available to you like whale-watching, blue marlin fishing, diving, surfing, hiking, and trekking.

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Culture and Heritage Europe Uncategorized

Barcelona offers magic around every corner

I have traveled for many years, trekking across mountain passes in war torn countries, hacking my way through jungles filled with butterflies the size of postcards and wandering in big cities where the metro is more complicated than performing brain surgery. But there is one place I always seem to return to. A place where you will find magic and history around every corner, Barcelona. On any given day, you”l find people out for a stroll along the Rambles, even very late into the evening. No one is in a hurry here, they are simply enjoying the pace of life. Something the Spanish call “La Marche”. Taking a long walk late at night with the family, spending an hour or 2 dining out, or actually enjoying your shopping at the local market is all a part of the unique Spanish culture. Of course if you visit here, you simply have to get into the swing of things. Everyone gets up early and works until mid-day. Then everything shuts down until late in the afternoon. The shops and restaurants stay open well into the evening and the Spanish like to stay up late. Don’t attempt to sleep in till 11 and then find a restaurant open for lunch.

While Spanish cultue is unique in many ways, the Catalan culture goes one step further in making this place truly different. The Catalans are a fiercely independent and proud people. During the Spanish civil war, they gave the Nationalists a very hard time, and Franco responded by banning all Catalan books, names and language. There were many executions in retribution too. You can, in fact, still see the bullet-holes on the exterior walls of Plaça Felip Neri (in the old quarter) when a number of Oratorian monks were shot.  After the fall of Franco, the people were again allowed to practice their culture in the open. If you dine at a typical Catalan restaurant, you’ll notice that the tables are like a giant picnic bench, where everyone dines together communally. You sit next to whom ever else is dining that evening, and just go with the flow.

The Old Town (or Barri Gòtic ) has been the  heart of the city for over 2000 years. Christopher Columbus was received here by the Catholic Monarchs after his first voyage to The Americas. The area is filled with amazing architecture and there are little plazas  everywhere, filled with fountains, cafes and palm trees. All over the city you will find the footprint of Barcelona’s darling, Antonio Gaudi. He not only created the madly fantastical Sagrada Familla, but also several houses, benches on many streets, water fountains and lamp posts. If you make it to Barcelona, be sure to slow down, feel the heartbeat of the city and really look closely. There truly is something new around every corner.

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Culture and Heritage Europe Historical Travel Uncategorized

Live the History in Romania’s Sighisoara Fortress

One of the last inhabited medieval fortresses of Europe lies in a small Romanian town, deep into the wonderful land of Transylvania, a land of legends and myths. Unknown to many tourists, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most interesting attractions of Romania, with a history that goes back for centuries and a cultural heritage far beyond its small size. The small Romanian town of Sighisoara is home to one of the best preserved medieval fortresses of the area and even Europe, with gates and towers that tell the story of a magnificent medieval stronghold. A fascinating historical fact about Sighisoara is that Vlad Tepes, the historical character behind the fictional character of Count Dracula, has been born in this small town. Today, there is a hotel and a restaurant bearing the name of Dracula and it a truly amazing experience.

Signisoara townApart from all these, the old town was first founded by German colonists over 700 years ago. Along the years, it became an important strategic point with a vivid commercial life. Considered by many one of the most beautiful fortresses in Europe, Sighisoara offers plenty of things to see and discover, beginning with its 9 medieval towers, each one representing one of the guilds of the town. The most impressive of them all is the Clock Tower, also representing the main gate into the old town. Sighisoara Fortress is set on the slopes of a hill, with the traditional tall and colorful houses following the winding cobble streets up and down the hill. Among its most interesting landmarks, we can include the Church of St. Nicholas, the Church of St. Mary, the City Hall and other charming smaller monuments. But overall, the charm of the town comes from the preserved medieval atmosphere.

For tourists that wish to visit this amazing architectural and historical treasure, there are several good accommodation options within the city, the big advantage being the one can visit everything on foot, leaving right from the hotel. Among the best accommodation choices, we can recommend Wagner House, Cavaler Hotel, Korona Hotel and other guesthouses, hostels and private houses. While traveling to Romania, it would be a shame not to try the traditional food and drinks, with some delicious local specialties that can be tasted at the Vlad Dracul House Restaurant, Ferdinand House Restaurant and others. Finally, for a truly rewarding and amazing experience, tourist can visit the two during the yearly medieval festival, taking place at the end of July, when the whole fortress is filled with medieval costumes, music and crafts.

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Art and Architectural Travel Europe Historical Travel Uncategorized

Bucharest offers a great Budget holiday

So you want to travel to Bucharest, but a little worried about costs? Don’t be.

There are numerous activities to experience and sights to enjoy without having to break the bank. First of all, most attractions are within walking distance from the city’s center, so if you have no issues with hitting the pavement, you’re good to go. For those who may prefer other means, there are options for you too, as for a couple euros you can hop a subway or train to get to your destination, or take a cheap tram or bus. For the latter two options, tickets must be bought in advance.

Horse sculptureNow that you’ve got the logistics out of the way for a low cost, it’s onto finding places to go that aren’t pricey.

Village Museum’s charge is less than two euros, and features the lives of average Romanians throughout history, giving real insight into their mindsets. There are real homes and replicas that span centuries, and anyone who’s a fan of history, anthropology, or just interested in other cultures, will absolutely love this experience.

For just a few euros, you can also visit and have a guided tour of the Palace of the Parliament. Parts of the building are always opened to the public, and it is an architectural masterpiece that has over one thousand rooms.  This makes it the second-largest administrative building in the world, after The Pentagon in the USA. When the communist government led the majority of Eurasia east of Berlin, the building’s original purpose was to be their crowning achievement. However, with the Soviet Union’s fall, it was quickly repurposed.

Another place you simply shouldn’t pass up when visiting Bucharest, is Revolution Square. It is one of the city’s premiere destinations, as it is the site where Ceausescu delivered his last speech, and where revolutionary violence initially began. Why else shouldn’t you miss out? Well, it’s absolutely free to visit and always open to the public.

There’s absolutely no reason why money should hinder your trip to the aptly dubbed, “Little Paris,” where rich history and culture merge with stunning beauty, and the result is a wonderful, must-see city.

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Europe Uncategorized

The Sochi Olympics from a local perspective

For a spectator, traveling to the Olympic Games takes about 24 hours of constant travel, but once you see Sochi and all it has to offer, the inconvenience and jet lag drift away. Others have endured and waited for this moment far longer than 24 hours. Residents of Sochi have been living through Olympic construction since the Russian bid for the Olympic Games in 2007—and it has taken a toll.

14 years of preparations

“Due to the Olympic construction, there wasn’t electricity for days at a time because they were running new electricity lines to the Olympic Park and Villages,” said Ivan Skoreshev, a Sochi resident. Others also observed how dirty Sochi continued to be even as the Olympic deadline grew closer. “There was a lot of dust and dirt,” said Sochi resident Sergey Okunkov. “I had binoculars that I used to look around and would see the dirt around the city. They literally threw the trash down the mountains, and there are a lot of places that still haven’t been cleaned up.” The construction even disrupted the sleep of Sochi residents.

Elena in the cafe
Evgenia Pochenkova has been living in Sochi for almost two years. She is the manager of Shokoladnica, a café in the local mall. The café she manages is similar to Starbucks. BSU at the Games/K. Green

“In the summer, there wasn’t any tourism, and a lot of people were frustrated and tired of the construction noise and couldn’t sleep at night,” said Evgenia Pochenkova, who moved to Sochi a year and a half ago. “People wondered, when will it end and when will the Olympics begin?”   During the construction, Sochi residents also began to hear unnerving rumors of what would happen during the Olympic Games. “I heard during the Olympics that gas prices will rise, that Sochi residents would not be allowed out of their homes, and some people were even being asked to leave the city for the Olympics, and there were not going to be a lot of people who would be able to work,” said Skoreshev.  “But it is not as bad as it was said to be.  Nothing like that happened.” The construction process was long and inconvenient, but some still feel it was well worth it in the end because of the city’s transformation. “My parents used to come to Sochi for vacation, and it was a small city with small buildings, and there wasn’t much here,” Pochenkova. “But now it is completely different, there are new stores, centers (malls). Life has become more interesting for the people of Sochi. There is more to do now.” “There were a number of people who were not happy about this process of construction because there were problems with electricity, telephone lines, long traffic jams. It was horrible.  But now it is all fixed.” There have been positive innovations to the city that please many of Sochi’s residents. “Overall, the Olympics have had a good influence on Sochi,” said Skoreshev. “It is turning Sochi into it a well-known city. People now know where the city is and what it has to offer. Also the road conditions have improved. They are safer and wider now.”

The tourism effect

Now that the construction is completed and the Olympic Games are coming to a close, some residents are concerned about the tourism rate and how it will affect Sochi afterwards. “The tourism will continue for the next two years, especially in the summer,” Pochenkova. “But it will then change because the interest of seeing the venues will diminish. People will continue to come in the summer but not be interested the Olympic venues as time passes, and I hope the government will do something to avoid this.” Another Sochi resident has already heard about plans to keep tourism high, and he hopes that it is true.

Sochi“I’ve heard the coastal cluster park will be turned into a Formula One track in the fall of this year, and in four years, Sochi will be one of the places in Russia where the FIFA World Cup will be held in 2018,” said Skoreshev. According to Pochenkova, the Olympic Games have attracted many young people, like her, to Sochi for work and job opportunities. She plans to stay and marry her fiancée, but she is concerned about others when the Games end. Despite the unknown future of jobs due to tourism, Sochi residents are enjoying all of the different cultures being brought into the country and city. “Different cultures are good. It has positively impacted the city because it is good to learn about other cultures,” said Okunkov. Pochenkova observed some of the specific cultural differences that are being noticed by Russians. “Russians are accepting the different cultures well,” said Pochenkova. “They understand that tourism is bringing changes to the culture. For instance, if you pay attention to the different international faces, they smile a lot regardless of what they are feeling; unlike Russians you can read all of the emotions on his face. If you look at Americans, they always smile no matter what they are feeling.” Despite the difficulties and uncertainties of their Olympic journey, many residents of Sochi seem to be happy and proud that the Games occurred not only in their home country but also their city.

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Adventure and Outdoor Travel Europe Uncategorized

Hiking the Scottish Highlands

Bagpipes and kilts are symbols of Scottish culture still, there are many other reasons visitors travel there year after year.

One of them is the fabulous hiking trails that offer not only breathtaking views, but a chance to witness the true beauty of Scotland’s countryside and wildlife. Be prepared for the urge to stop and just take in all that exists around you, as the country’s landscapes rise up to envelop you in all their glory.

Hiking the Scottish HighlandsThere are many options to choose from when hiking in Scotland. If you don’t have lots of time, or are unaccustomed to the activity, The Clyde Coast Way is definitely for you. Fifty miles of simple trails along the picturesque southwest coast offer jaw-dropping views. Charming historic churches, and little villages line the way as well, and if you’d like to stop for a drink, or a bite to eat, check out one of the traditional pubs found on the route.

Those seeking a more demanding trail must take on the North to Cape Wrath route. This 205-mile adventure will leave your legs screaming the next day, but is worth every step for the avid hiker. At Cape Wrath adventurers will discover the Scottish mainland’s northernmost point, where a lighthouse sits beckoning you closer. This is still an unofficial trail, but there are numerous guidebooks featuring information about it so pick one up, put on your best hiking boots, and embrace the challenge.

If you want to try another long path, but one that isn’t as popular quite yet, check out The East Highland Way which is currently the youngest.  For seventy-eight miles traveling from Ft. William to Aviemore, history buffs will fall in love with this trail as there are many castles, prehistoric sites, and lochs along the way.

Loch in Scottish HighlandFor intrigue and mystery The Great Glen Way is calling to you, as for seventy-nine miles you can try to catch glimpses ofNessie” the famed “Loch Ness monster.” Hikers travel past Lochs Locky, Oich, and Ness, and who knows, maybe one of Nessie’s siblings is hiding in the others.

For the more environmentally-inclined hiker, check out ninety-six miles of diverse eco-zones on The West Highland Way. Not only would you be treading on the first officially designated footpath in Scotland, but expect to see Scottish moors, forests, mountains, and lochs along the way.

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Art and Architectural Travel Culture and Heritage Europe Historical Travel Uncategorized

The City of Bath – a Georgian Masterpiece

The City of Bath in the United Kingdom is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bath attracts millions of history and architecture enthusiasts from around the world

Located in Somerset, England, the city of Bath boasts a long and fascinating history.

Bath dates back to a pre-Roman era.  The first written records identify a spa called Aquae Sulis (or, ‘the waters of Sulis’) that was founded by the Romans in AD 43.  Roman baths quickly flourished in Bath but the city also became known for its wool industry throughout the years.

Bath architecture.The striking Georgian architecture and natural spas are attractive features for the four million tourists who journey to Bath.  Many travelers come for a day visit while others stay a few days to soak up (no pun) the charm.

Among the popular attractions is the Royal Crescent, a prime example of Georgian design built by John Wood the Younger.  Bath Abbey, the name for the Abbey Church of Saint Pater and Saint Paul, presents another architectonic jewel. Parts of the Abbey’s foundation dates back to the 7th century, however, the current foundation was built in the 16th century.

In addition to the Roman Baths and architecture, Bath is considered a cultural center.   Some of the popular attractions worth visiting include the Victoria Art Gallery, Holborne Museum of Art, and the Herschel Museum of Astronomy.

Bath is certainly worth exploring because and exploring the Roman Baths is a must.  No photograph or video footage can do this masterpiece justice. One simply has to come and see this city symbol up close.

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Adventure and Outdoor Travel Culture and Heritage Europe Uncategorized

Armenia: an ideal destination for history lovers and adventurers

Armenia, once part of the Soviet republici, is a small nation in the Caucasus region between Asia and Europe.   The country has such a wealth of culture and exciting history, that it’s no surprise its tourism product has started to take off.

The entire Caucasus region has seen an increase in the number of travelers heading there, with Armenia being one of the highlights. Filled with amazing food, wine, and people ready to share their culture and experiences, it is a fantastic travel option for those who want to pack as much as they can into one vacation.

Numerous UNESCO World Heritage sites are found in the country, so it’s easy to tick a few off your list while there.

History lovers and those interested in religious landmarks, won’t want to miss out as in the early 4th century, the Kingdom of Armenia was the first to adopt Christianity. This is just the beginning of the rich historical and cultural heritage this nation possesses. Remember Noah’s Ark from the Bible story? In the story, Mount Ararat in the Caucasus Mountains is known as the Ark’s last resting place—an Armenian landmark.

Yerevan
The city of Yerevan

Zoroastrian fire temple, a heritage site close to the capital Yerevan, is the most visited pilgrimage site in Armenia and it’s not just related to Christianity. The Church of the Virgin Mary, Geghard Monastery, and Etchmiadzin Cathedral, are other draws and among the country’s many available tours.

Have the cherry on the top of an already wondrous vacation, by visiting the Temple of Garni. Constructed in the first century AD, it is one of the few pagan monuments that survived until the 17th century. Even then its demise was not at man’s hand, but an earthquake’s. Reconstruction in 1965 has allowed the temple to endure till now.

Mount Ararat
Mount Ararat

If you’re not one for any of the above, choose Armenia for a new outdoor adventure. With its diverse terrain, and a number of knowledgeable tour providers who offer tailor-made tours, you can take part in one or more of the cultural tours available. According to Arthur Mrktchyan, Director of AdvenTour Explorer LLC, hiking and trekking are among the big sells. Those who want a greater rush, choose Southern Armenia’s terrain for cycling and biking holidays. From the breathtaking Svaneti mountain region, to the mysterious hidden caves of Lastiver, there is something for every outdoor enthusiast.

Local tourist traffic is expected to continue to grow and with such vast offerings, what are you waiting for?

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Conservation Environment and Nature Europe Responsible and Sustainable Travel Uncategorized

Asturias – “Green Spain”

You see the words “Green Spain” and if you’re unfamiliar, are probably thinking of Spaniards soaked in green paint, or some other vivid imagery.

What Green Spain actually refers to is the Asturias region of the country, so named because of its diverse wilderness that will simply take your breath away. Located on the northern coast of Spain, and across from Bay of Biscay, the verdant coastal strip is north of the Cantabrian Mountains, and is often overshadowed by more popular destinations like Barcelona and Madrid.

Hikers from across the world travel to the region to take advantage of lush green forests, incredible landscapes including the Picos de Europa (Peaks of Europe), and clear rivers. However, this diverse destination offers more than just hiking, much more.

The region’s historic “capital” is Oviedo, which, along with its surrounding hills, hide many historic Romanesque churches that will ensure you get your injection of ancient culture as you explore.

Fabada.
Photo:  Juan J. Martinez

If you just want to indulge, it’s the right place to do so too, as Oviedo is known for its Sidra (Spanish cider). Travelers can take a load off along the Boulevard of Cider, and drink to their heart’s content as local life passes you by. Add fabada asturiana to your lazy afternoon’s menu, as the delicious local dish that is a bean stew made with chorizo sausage, morcilla (black pudding), pork shoulder, and saffron, is a must-try while in the Asturias region.

Expect to find many Spanish travelers vacationing there while you are, as it’s one of the most popular destinations for citizens.  The sunshine and local beaches are a huge draw, and villages like Gijon that mix the old and modern day, allow you to shop-till-you-drop if you wish. Today Gijon is also a busy shipping port, a far cry from where it started as a small fishing village three thousand years ago.

For those who want to slow right down, take advantage of the many other fishing villages the region has. Enjoy quiet walks along the coast, breathe in the sea air, and become one with Green Spain for at least a little while.

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Archaelogogical Tourism Art and Architectural Travel Europe Family Travel Holidays Uncategorized

Wallonia, Belgium: A Budget and Family Travel treasure

It can be tough to find a destination that’s great for the whole family, but there’s one that you probably haven’t even considered.

Wallonia, Belgium, offers opportunities for an incredible family getaway. You might already be thinking, “Belgium? Isn’t that where all the world summits are?” Sure, Belgium is known as the EU’s political metropolis, and throughout the year the country is full of economists, diplomats, and financial gurus from all over the world. However, it also has great potential to be a prime tourist destination, and Wallonia is the perfect place to start.

Celles-Veves Castle, Belgium
Celles-Veves Castle.  Photo:  Anton Raath

While many speak French there, the official languages of this federal region of Belgium are both French and German. Expect Walloon to greet you sometimes though, as that’s the native language and it can be tough for locals to communicate with English-speakers at times.

All that is forgotten as you take in the wondrous beauty of Wallonia’s forests, some of which feature theme trails for hikers. History lovers will be enchanted by the local historical sites including castles and abbeys. If you want places to start, Abbey of Orval, and Abbey Notre-Dame of Leffe, are two popular landmarks that you simply must check out. Meanwhile, those from the big city get a chance to slow right down on visits to the many small villages and towns found in Wallonia.

Namur, Wallonia’s capital, is 60 km south-east of Brussels. Its intricate layout, cobblestone streets, and elegant flare, will leave you thinking you’re in a storybook. There you will find the Museum of Old Namurois Art, and the Archaeological Museum—featuring collections from prehistory and the Gallo-Roman and Merovingian periods from the Namur province. Another of the city’s sightseeing highlights is definitely the citadel, located on a hill that overlooks the river Meuse (also known as the Dutch Maas).

For more outdoorsy adventure, get your water activities going with kayak trips, and watch nature go by as you coast along the river.

Kids will love visits to the chocolate factories, and parents can get just a little tipsy at local breweries.

Any hang-ups you had about visiting Belgium can be put aside, as not only is the country easy to access by all modes of transportation, but Wallonia is just one of the awesome places where you can have great family fun.

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Art and Architectural Travel Conservation Environment and Nature Europe Uncategorized

De Caravan: Serving Pie on Vintage Vinyl Records

Is the old family RV slowly gathering rust in the backyard? Want to help the world, make people happy and healthy, while at the same time spread the word on using recycled materials to create beautiful new items? That’s what a creative young Dutchwoman named Karlijn has done and it has worked out pretty well for her.  She bought a rusting old Adria caravan off the internet for a measly $100 (a feat easily repeated through sites like tourertrader.co.uk or craigslist.com) and with the help of some handy friends transformed it into a retro-looking, 1960’s mini-artfair and juicebar.

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Europe Uncategorized

Exploring North Rhine – Westphalia

If you’re wondering where next you should visit, consider North Rhine-Westphalia.

Though it begins in Switzerland, the Rhine is for Germans, a national river. Seems a bit strange doesn’t it? What leaves no room for confusion however, is the fact that the region around the confluence of rivers Rhine and Moselle, is any tourist’s dream. With numerous vineyards, castles, and pubs to choose from, the only question is if you’ll have enough time to take it all in.

There are various ways to reach the North Rhine-Westphalia region, and whichever you choose is a winner, as there’s so much to do and see.

KoblenzTraditionally Koblenz will be your starting point and from there you can see places like Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, Jesuitenplatz, the Elector’s palace, and Florinsmarkt. Historic monuments dot the landscape, including the imposing equestrian statue of Emperor William I of Germany, which is found in Deutsches Eck— German Corner at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle. The famous statue was named after the Teutonic Knights who were given the area in the 13th century, and holds a place of prominence in the region.

If you’d rather roam the halls of castles, make sure you check out Marksburg near the town of Braubach, one of the only castles still standing as its original structure. The castle was probably saved from destruction by the large cannons found within, and fortifications which were enlarged many times during the Middle Ages which left it unconquered. Pfalzgrafenstein, found on a river island close to the town of Kaub, is another that stands as it did for centuries.

MarksburgHeritage site enthusiasts will love that there’s something for you too, as the region between the cities of Bingen and Koblenz, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage— a symbol of German romantics. It is the scene for the famous NibelungenliedThe Song of the Nibelungs, and prominent character ‘Lorelai’, who Heinrich Heine made immortal in his poem “The Lorelai” was said to sit on the riverbanks and lure sailors to their death on the rocks.

If all the romance and morbidity is too much for you, have a drink or many at one of the fine vineyards found all along the region.

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Culinary Travel Europe Uncategorized

Greece, un reve devenu realité

When thinking of Greece, we have the tendency to collect the following clichés; bailout from the European Union (EU), jobless youth, suicidal trend among citizen, laziness, poor in knowledge, pride etc…however, this was not the same when I visited the land of Greece. I had the best and unforgettable experience in Athens. The reality was different for me when I arrived in Athens. I had the pleasure to discover another Greece, a place that struck my imagination as described by the great writers of Geography. I had previously gathered a lot of information from different sources and authors concerning this ancient State. The feelings I kept when reading books and stories about the Arena’s, Gladiator movie, the birth of democracy, justice, and human moralities. Greeks have a way of expressing their thoughts and feelings with heartfelt affection and gestures when talking about anything serious.

Photo:  Marie Noelle Anaella

In one way or another, Greece is one of those countries that fascinated me because there is a lot to behold in this land, which I would only have in my imagination. I love the Greek gastronomy, drinks, culture, and their pride. The two weeks I spent there were blissful as I enjoyed every little moment on my daily routine. I often visited local markets where I interacted with local people. At the market, every person was trying to make me taste something or try to say something in English, which created many hilarious moments. Again, vendors offered me pieces of fruits, which were juicy and delicious. It was evident that I looked and spoke different from my hosts because the locals were looking at me with curious eyes. I was excited by the art of business of the Greek fishermen who trying to convince me to buy fish I had never seen.

Photo:  Marie Noelle Anaella

I spent most of my time eating and drinking tsipouro and raki, which are locals drinks you need to try in Greece. For me, the best Souvlaki is to be found at John’s place which is “Ερμής” the Greek word for the god “Hermes”. To have a great view of Athens, I definitely advise you the lounge cafe “Blow” lat Castella Hill, an amazing experience. By the end of the day, I was left with a smile on my face. My hosts in Greece gave me the best experience away from home yet felt at home due to the familiarities of the local markets, their smiles, jokes and appreciation warmed my heart with compassion. Do not forget to taste their cappuccino. Greece is a GREAT destination and do not forget to visit the ISLANDS!!

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Culinary Travel Europe Historical Travel Uncategorized

BUDAPEST: The City of Spas, Art and Great Food

Where should you go for the ultimate spa experience? Look no further than Budapest, where their world-renowned spas are waiting for you.

Popular spas like Széchenyi and Gellért, have taken advantage of the Hungarian capital’s 120 springs that provide healing, relaxing, and revitalizing experiences for all who visit them. These springs pump out a whopping 70 million liters of water daily, and you can bet that the volume is put to good use.

Széchenyi Thermal Bath is Budapest’s premiere grand spa, and consists of ten indoor pools, and three outdoor pools. As it has been in operation since the early twentieth century, it is a favorite among locals of all ages, and health backgrounds. Many visit during the weekends to prepare for the coming week, or to help relieve muscle and joint pain.

Gellert Hotel pool
Gellert Hotel pool

A great time to visit Budapest’s spas is after or before a long day of checking out historical sites. The city has many that attract tourists’ attention including the Buda Castle, Hungarian Parliament Building, and Matthias Church. Visiting all those sites can be tiring, so take a load off at a spa and enjoy the healing hot waters or, do the reverse and jump in to get more energy for the day ahead.

Gellért Spa and Bath, provides many of the same comforts as Széchenyi, though it has fewer pools. Its charm lies with its exquisite mosaics, marble pillars, and the fact that it’s a part of an art noveau hotel of the same name. Add that to its location—on a hill close to the historic city center, and Gellért is a spa experience you don’t want to miss out on.

If the hot water takes it out of you and you want something to munch on, try local sweets like strudel, cakes, or pancakes, or heavier dishes like Pörkölt—Hungarian meat stew, and of course the famous Hungarian meat goulash.

Soaking at a spa may not be your thing, but there are plenty other opportunities to enjoy all that Budapest has to offer. For all you travelers who aren’t ready to pass up your spa opportunity however, remember to bring your own swimsuit, towels, and flip-flops, jump in and enjoy.

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Europe Sports Tourism Uncategorized

Visit the Winter Olympic Games in Sochi

Tonya relaxes on the Black Sea while viewing the Olympic Rings.  Photo:  Ian Fitzpatrick
Tonya gazes at the Olympic Rings on the Black Sea. Photo: Ian Fitzpatrick

One of the biggest events of next year will grasp the attention of the whole world and will bring into attention the Russian resort city of Sochi. Unknown to many people, that think about Russia and only imagine its vast land with plains, mountains, Siberia and the tundra, it does also have some excellent summer sea resorts, the biggest and most famous being the city of Sochi, located in the southwestern extremity of the country, south of the Caucasus Mountains and by the Black Sea coast. This is also considered one of the longest cities in Europe, spreading along about 145 kilometers of the coast. Then again, if you imagine a mild climate with hot and sunny summers and mild winters, with warm weather and waters, you will be right, as the city features a subtropical climate and is surrounded by green forests.

This is somewhat intriguing when one knows that Sochi will be the host of the 2014 Winter Olympics, but the truth is that Sochi is also close to the high mountains, and the nearby resort of Krasnaya Polyana will also host some events. In the last years, the city has seen major changes, with the development of many new venues and facilities to accommodate the sporting events and the international delegations. Among others, the city now features an Ice Dome, Skating Center, Skating Palace, Olympic Stadium, Olympic Village, new ski slopes and many others. Nevertheless, this will be the warmest city to ever host an edition of the Winter Olympic Games. The hospitality industry of the resort has also been improved greatly, modernizing and opening new hotels, restaurants and other facilities. Sochi will probably see the arrival of thousands and thousands of tourists during the games, both supporters and other people interested by the greatness of this event.

Olympic Flame in Sochi.  Photo:  Ian Fitzpatrick
Overlooking Olympic Park in Sochi. Photo: Ian Fitzpatrick

Apart from this special sports competition, Sochi represents a major tourist destination on its own, although it is mostly famous inside Russia, with an estimated 2 million people visiting the beaches of the city during each season. It is considered a rather higher class destination, with the elite of Russia having their own villas and summer residences in Sochi. There are also other interesting attractions to visit in this city, except the amazing beaches that stretch for miles along the coast. The city and the region have experienced a rich and troubled history, with many migratory population passing by and influencing its culture. The main landmarks in Sochi include the Michael Archangel Cathedral and Statue, the Tree of Friendship, the Winter Theater, Riviera Park, the Art Museum, the Stalinist buildings, the Godlik Fortress, Loo Temple, the History Museum, the Dendrarium and many others, including the World Heritage Site of the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve.

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Adventure and Outdoor Travel Europe Uncategorized

From Gelato to Prageleto – Northern Italy’s Frozen Delights

Prageleto, translated ‘icy meadow’ is arguably Northern Italy’s top skiing destination.

If you’ve never heard of it, you might have thought it was some kind of delicious ice-cream from an Italian gelato shop. While this is not quite the case, the wondrous sensations of taking in the kind of beauty that poets have raved about for centuries, as the wind caresses your face on the slopes, could be considered far better than the creamy dessert.

Found in the upper Val Chisone, to the west of Turin—a striking neo-classical location in itself—Prageleto is a wonderland in the winter months. Thick blankets of snow cover the ground and pine trees lend their scent to the fresh open air. You can choose to take to the slopes on your own, or if you’d prefer a little help, professional instructors are ready to get you on your way to exploring the gorgeous Italian Alps.

pasta noodlesAs Prageleto is such a draw for travelers, Club Med is there to ensure you’ll be well taken care of. Experience Italian food, drinks, and outdoorsy warmth, with décor and luxurious furnishings to match. Breakfast is traditional faire, complete with fresh espresso, warm pastries, and orange juice. Onsite restaurants feature meals that will leave you wanting more long after you’ve had them, and La Dolce Vita lounge bar is perfect for having great wine, or relaxing solo with a good book. For those who want a little more excitement, the resort’s nightclub is the place for you to dance the night away, or maybe meet someone new.

Before we get to dancing though, work off that delightful breakfast with a brisk hike in the valley either solo, or with a guide who’ll share all about Prageleto’s heritage and history. You can literally lose yourself in all the wonder that this location brings and whether you’re with friends, family, or traveling alone, you’re sure to be blown away by the experience.

Italy is a place where there is something for every traveler, and in Prageleto, whether it’s spa days, ski days, or curling up with your family in a private living room for hours at a time, you won’t want to miss out.

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Art and Architectural Travel Culture and Heritage Europe Uncategorized

Alhambra: A Islamic treasure in Southern Spain

Among the great architectural miracles of Spain, one place breathes exuberance and style, representing one of the most beautiful structures made by man. The palace of Alhambra is one of the most popular tourists destinations in Spain, with millions of visitors each year. The historical palace and fortress of Alhambra are located in the province of Granada in Andalusia, a charming region of southern Spain. The complex, listed in the UNESCO World Heritage, is a unique example of the medieval Muslim Spain and Moorish rule over southern Spain. The name derives from the Arab term of Red Castle, because of the red walls of the complex, contrasting with the green forests that surround it.

Alhambra Palace interiorSituated near the city of Granada in a strategic point, overlooking the city and the surrounding area, the fortress complex will truly amaze any art and architecture lover, with some exquisite interior design masterpieces that cannot be found anywhere else. Although the first mentions of this place start from the 9th century, as a fortress guarding over the city, the site became a royal residence of the Nasrid dynasty in the 13th century. This started the glorious period for the Alhambra complex, being enriched with extraordinary new additions through the centuries that followed. Among the many buildings that form the complex of Alhambra, tourists can visit the Moorish Palace, the baroque palace of Karl V, a church that was built in the place of an old mosque and many other amazing landmarks.

It is believed that although the Spanish kings sought to destroy all evidence of Islamic rule over the territories they re-conquered at the end of the 15th century, the Alhambra palace was so beautiful that they could not bring themselves to destroy it. The interior of the palace is truly astonishing, a testament to every style of classic Arab art, with calligraphic, floral and geometric decorations that form a unique and fascinating ensemble. The Islamic art shown inside the Alhambra complex is one of the most amazing examples found anywhere in the world.

Alhambra artwork

 

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Culinary Travel Europe Uncategorized

Is London the new culinary spot?

The Olympic Games are over and the vibrant city of London has returned to its daily routine with its awesome atmosphere. What will definitely be remembered from London are the feats of Usain Bolt and his undefeated team, Michael Phelps as most decorated Olympian, USA’s flying female foursome, Chris Hoy with his amazing cycling win, the “Comaneci” moment of Epke Zonderland, Chinese success with the 16-year old, Ye Shiwen, one of the Asian nation’s biggest stars, Stephen Kiprotich, a great champion long-distance runner and many more. As Oprah said, “there were so many “Aha” moments during these Olympic Games, the list could go on for hours”. But what struck me the most is how London has changed, especially when it comes to cuisine.